Around since 1869, the narrow, high-ceilinged rooms of this Spartan eating house have been lovingly re-created from the past, with narrow oak tables, newly padded benches and vintage, mismatched crockery. Chef Shaun Searley’s British menu is a mix of smaller plates served in the wine bar and set evening meals delivered family-style in the dining room. While selections change three times a day, if you time it right, don’t miss the Galloway beef mince on toast or the luxurious liver parfait. Regardless, it’s all about the confit potatoes here. Thinly sliced, slow cooked, compressed, chilled, sliced and then pan fried until crispy, order a double portion to go with whatever is on the specials board (usually sourced from their butchery next door). For dessert, consider the warm al dente rice pudding, which arrives warm with a spoon of damson on top. The place features a cracking wine list too. Go.